Paradise Lost: Jervis Bay Reflections
I began rock fishing when I was just 12 or 13, casting my line from the wave-washed ledges around Tathra, on the far south coast of NSW, along Australia’s eastern seaboard. From the very first fish landed, I was hooked… I guess you could say it was love at first bite!
I moved to the Nowra/Bomaderry area of southern NSW with my family early in 1973, not long before my 15thbirthday. My first visit to the famous rock ledges of Jervis Bay (places I’d already heard so much about) involved a walk into the Outer Tubes with my father one weekend that summer. It was a busy day on the rocks with a good number of anglers in attendance. From memory, we saw a nice mackerel tuna (kawa kawa) landed and a couple of good fish lost, and I marvelled at the quality and calibre of tackle in use, quickly realising that my own very basic gear fell well short of the mark necessary to take on serious land based game (LBG) fishing… But I also knew that was I wanted to do!
By autumn 1974 I was regularly visiting the rock ledges on the south side of the Bay, between Bowen Island and Steamers Beach. My favourite was a location we called “The Pimple”. Reaching it to fish at first light required a pre-dawn walk of nearly an hour and a strenuous rope-assisted climb down some crumbling ledges. We enjoyed fantastic sport there (and at nearby St Georges Head or “Corangamite”, as we knew it), mostly lure casting for salmon, tailor, kingfish, smaller tuna, bonito, trevally and juvenile Samson fish. I caught my first “big” fish here in autumn 1974… an 18 pound (8 kilo) mack’ tuna spun up on an old Iron metal lure cast off a Mitchell 499 eggbeater and Butterworth rod… Once more, I was hooked!
The loose group I fished The Pimple, Corangamite, The Tubes, Beecroft and Devils Gorge with in those years included the likes of Jeff Dowle and his wonderful father, Noel (who usually acted as the driver, minder and mentor for us younger blokes), my best mate Roger Apperley, John Monaghan, Gordon Croote, Paul Winchester and several others, mostly junior members of the Nowra Sport Fishing Club.
I finished high school in 1975 and also penned my first article for a fishing magazine that same year. It was called “Nowra’s Rock Hopping Juniors” and I submitted it to Ron Calcutt, founder and editor of the old “Australian Angler” magazine (later to become “Fishing World”). You can imagine how ecstatic I was when Ron (my idol right through my late teens) wrote back to accept the piece and offer me payment of $50 upon publication! (From memory, that Mitchell 499 reel had cost me $49, so 50 bucks seemed a lot of money to a 16 year old!) The piece was published in the February, 1976 issue of the magazine and marked the beginning of my career as a fishing writer and communicator.
By this stage I was live baiting and spinning the rocks around Jervis Bay at every possible opportunity, and continued to do so through my university years whenever I could get a lift (I had no car and no driver’s licence). Fortunately, my slightly older mate Roger Apperley and I were virtually inseparable in those days, and he had both a car and a licence!
My favourite spot was the Outer Tubes where, every weekend, we found ourselves rubbing shoulders and sharing live bait drifts with some of the iconic names in early LBG fishing. These included the likes of Dave Mayne and Bobby Russo (it’s a reflection of the lack of political correctness in those days that Bobby was almost always referred to simply as “Bob the Wog”!). There were also a couple of highly respected LBG guns from Sydney who, I believe, belonged to the Kuringai Fishing Club. I’m almost certain one of them was named Dave Lindfield. He was an LBG angler I greatly admired and I would hang on his every word when he offered tips or advice. Later we were joined by others like Mark Hanlon, Simon Cassettari (both of whom wrote for magazines in the 1980s), Sean Fitzgerald and many others whose names have long since slipped through the cracks in my memory. The “vibe” was not dissimilar to the surfing scene, with the older guys greatly admired and looked up to by us emerging “grommets”.
The fishing itself was demanding and character-building. We often went a long, long time between strikes from decent fish, although the smaller salmon, tailor, bonito, frigate mackerel, mack’ tuna and the like fortunately filled in many of the big fish gaps. We also did ourselves no great favours by sticking doggedly to the old ANSA 20 pound line class as our “heavy” tackle! This proved well and truly under-gunned on many of the better fish we hooked.
High points for me through those intensive LBG years from 1974 until 1980 included landing a couple of yellowfin tuna in the 18 kilo (40 pound) class and a slightly larger longtail of just under 42 pounds (we called then northern bluefin in those days), along with various mack’ tuna and smaller yellowfin to 8 kg or so, kingies to a similar weight, hammerhead sharks and so on. We also lost more big yellowtail kingfish than I could possibly count! However, my biggest heartbreak was battling a monster yellowfin tuna for several hours one afternoon, only to have it cut off by a passing pleasure boat when almost beaten and finning tiredly on the surface 250 to 300 metres out… I still occasionally wake in a cold sweat from nightmares of that loss more than three decade later!
I have more memories and vivid images from that five year period than I can ever hope to re-tell. I suppose the climax of my LBG career came on a morning in early January, 1979, when I walked into The Tubes with Peter Dore carrying buckets holding a load of small, live yakkas (yellowtail scad) that Pete (a sailor) had caught at the HMAS Creswell navy wharf. Carrying live bait into The Tubes was a bit of a “coals to Newcastle” exercise, but we must have had a reason! Maybe they were hard to come by that season? Anyway, my first bait out was eaten at about 8AM and I hooked and (25 minutes later) landed my first-ever black marlin: a fish of 51 pounds (25 kg) that jumped and fought spectacularly on 20 pound line. Carrying it up the hill and back out to the car park was a draining effort, even for a pumped-up 20-year old! I doubt I’d get halfway these days… (We always believed in those days that the first LBG marlin had been taken off The Tubes somewhere between 1969 and 1972, although there’s now reason to believe that others may have been caught even earlier than that. By the time I caught mine, at least a couple of dozen had been landed and many more lost.)
I left the coast to take up a teaching posting shortly after that, then returned to Sydney in 1981 to work with my idol, Ron Calcutt, and eventually become editor of his “Fishing World” magazine (1981 – 1984). I fished the rock ledges of Jervis Bay (north and south) quite a few times during those busy years and watched younger generations of budding LBG anglers go through the same great learning experiences I’d enjoyed there, helping to celebrate their journey in the pages of that great publication.
At the beginning of the 1990s, having relocated to Gerringong after a year or so living and working in Canada, I once again became a regular visitor to the ledges of Jervis Bay, this time concentrating on the south side around Salt Rock (south west of Steamers Beach, near Brooks Rock). By now I’d become quite keen on fly fishing and would often fly cast for salmon, kingfish, bonito and tailor from these wave-washed ledges. A particularly large salmon I nailed there on fly during this period remains an IGFA world record more than 20 years later and, at 14 pounds, is still officially the largest Australian salmon (kahawai) ever taken on fly anywhere in the world, either from the shore or a boat. It’s a record I’m particularly proud of.
The rock ledges of Jervis Bay, the fishing I’ve done there and the people I met along the way form a crucial part of my character, and contributed more to my development as an angler and a fishing communicator than any other single region on earth. Those amazing rocks and the water that fronts them lie at the very core of who I am, what I feel, and how I think as a fisherman. It is vital for my spirit to know that they are still there, protected, and available to others to share and enjoy. It would not be a long stretch at all to refer to the rock platforms between Currarong and Wreck Bay as the Holy Land, Mecca or Dreamtime world of Australian land-based recreational fishing… they really are that significant to those of us who know and love them.
Sadly, however, access to many (if not most) of those Jervis Bay rock ledges I first fished as a teenager is now denied to the general public. A multitude of reasons are touted for these closures: habitat protection, safety concerns, conflicts of interest with the military, the sensitivities of indigenous land owners and so on. Some of these justifications may hold water, while others definitely don’t. But the bottom line is that vast tracts of this wonderful area — truly the birthplace of LBG fishing in Australia, and amongst the world’s most iconic shore fishing spots — are now off-limits to the likes of you and me. In my opinion, this is a crime against the true owners of this land: the people of Australia, regardless of their race, age, sex, religious creed or political bent. These are OUR rock ledges, yet we are no longer allowed to visit them! It makes me angry.
Thankfully, there is a group now working actively in an attempt to restore access to some of these areas and prevent further erosion of our rights. That group is called Fishing Heritage Jervis Bay. It is a community based initiative aiming to achieve public recognition and acknowledgement of the social, cultural and historic values of land based game (LBG) fishing in the Jervis Bay region, and to restore access to some of the off-limits locations.
Fishing Heritage Jervis Bay desperately needs your stories and photos of Jervis Bay rock fishing to support a nomination for Commonwealth Heritage status. There’s a requirement for evidence to support this nomination, to ensure it reaches the “significance threshold” set by Government. Along with a literature review, your testimonies and photos are to be an integral part of the submission. If you can help, please contact Fishing Heritage Jervis Bay at http://www.fishingheritagejervisbay.net.au/ or via their page on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Fishing-heritage-Jervis-Bay/289766641042316 While you’re at it, be sure to “like” their page on Facebook!
Fishing Heritage Jervis Bay are being actively supported by a great group known as the Australian Land Based Anglers Association or ALBAA. If you’re a keen shore-based fisher (even if you’ve never cast a line around Jervis Bay) I strongly urge you to join this association, which represents land-based anglers Australia-wide. You’ll find their website at: http://albaa.com.au/
The time has come to stop waiting for others to fix these things on our behalf. It’s time to stand up and be counted. If you’ve ever fished the rocks around Jervis Bay, please post a comment here, then visit the sites and pages on Facebook I’ve provided links to and share your stories. We need YOUR support!
Total agree on your comment on it should be open to fishio and recreation as it was always ground for just that . If the indigenous people stop or denied me to go to certain area I would be sure tell them take ya cloths off paint up and live there as they say thats there place . In witch you find most of them never ever been there anyhow. And that is what they want live life the way they did before white man yellow red skin . Angry I am yes but I am not racist. I bought land and it was mine but they now have small part witch I paid for but its the department of environment wanted to have me pay x amount of dollars for servey and all I was doing was having power lines suspended in air only post in my land post on main road access power line suspended charge for air space as rental . My power lines now do not go over there land I built around them cost me more but in long run not get my money . And in that time of over 20 years not one black skin been there or dpi agent . So they claim land for what ?
To add why can they fish there and we cant when they all live in same place and wear white mans intention fish with our intentions. Yet they can fish green zone ect rules should be as equal as the next person regardless of race or greed .
It’s a tricky one. The Wreck Bay community are certainly entitled to their say, but they also need to listen to (and consider) other stakeholders and the wider community…
Thank you Steve………great story. I have written my own submission for this great cause, though i dont have half the story you have to tell, but felt compelled to all the same.
All the Best
Good on you David!
Nice article mate. Land rights issue is quite ridiculous from what i have experienced in QLD the places they claim are more often than not, never visited or utilised by them.
Well written Steve and thank you so much for your support
Well said steve wot you jst spoke about has got me so pumped up. i live up in the sutherland shire and love my lbg/ livebaiting off the stones i get out every wkend around my area but it is a true honour to go on a trip down to the JB rockledges around currarong.. jst being down there brings tingles in my body just thinking about the fish that hav been landed n more so the ones that got away… its a great idea to make better access/ reopen places down there for those that are keen enough to nake the trek there.. you hav my vote thanx and tight lines….
I guess the people who make the rules dont care about fishing in jb
As for jb fishing history it means the world for some, a grave to others, dreams to all who venture out to catch that rush..
Hey mate great article, was talking to my dad, he is one of the guys that used to take you and others fishing back then with the club. He said he will have a look for old photos he has and I’ll scan what he has. Think it’s a great cause, wolud love to get to some of the places he talks of! Hope we get some results out of the effort you and others are putting in! Cheers
Thanks for all the support, guys. This cause really needs it! Also, by way of clarification, please don’t get bogged down too much in the indigenous land rights issue, which I know can be an emotive one. But that is a small part of the problem here, and only on the south side of the Bay, where the Wreck Bay community has some genuine concerns about access. Most of the other closures are being driven by National Parks, Defence and various other Canberra-based departments. That’s where we need to be directing our effort. I’ll tell you now, we’ll never win if we turn this into a race issue. ‘Nuf said?
Awesome editorial Starlo ,hung onto every word,I’ve been alert & thinking about fishing all morning,packed my l.b gear for a rockhop over the
northside of Muttonbird Ild Coffs H. Cept the storm kicked in,hope to read more of your top notch fishing adventures soon, your mate James Britton
Great read Starlo, love the pics too.
You’re not at EP chasing that milky are you?
Maybe the foreshore near the gully?
Good memories
Yep, Rock Sitters at East Point. 🙂
I’ve never had the chance to get down that way steve it would’ve been awesome in the earlier years, I can relate to what everyone feels about this situation up in Gladstone Qld we had a similiar thing happen the rocks thats now are part of Barney point Coal terminal used to be awesome for Macks,jewfish and the odd barra up around edge of jetties i had fished there for years and so did my stepfather after 9/11 the ports were closed to anyone who didn’t work on them the rocks were just inside the exclusion zone now our old fishing haunt has a dirty great big razor wired fence and the nightshift guys are always there fishing bit unfair.
This is the place where some of todays fishing legends began their rise to the top of the fishing echelon here in Australia. Wollongong and Nowra Sportfishing Clubs shared owners rights around those magical rocks back in the 70’s. I began my fishing career in earnest with Wollongong SFC in 1975. I fished with guys who really knew their stuff, although they too were on a radical learning curve with Land Based Game Fishing and High Speed Spinning. Some of the Wollongong names around at the time soon became well known, Dennis Brown, Neil Cleaver, Bruce Spears, Mark McKinnery, Wayne Hogan, Rod Harrison, Ken Hockey, Heydon Chrystal and ramp rats like Scotty Mitchell and Greg Clark — ALL great fishermen who have contributed to fishing folklore around the JB area and beyond. We can’t forget Joe Gospel or Wayne Hanstead either. These two young Americans were at the heart of all things fishy in those days and let’s not forget Ron Calcutt for his contributions to High Speed Spinning.
When it came to fishing the stones for large fish we used huge live baits at times, Spearsy put on a Tailor of nearly 3kgs one day and caught a monster Kingie at Wallaby Rock. Silver Trevally of around a kilo or so were prime baits for huge Yellowfin Tuna and their smaller cousins, the Long Tailed Tuna. Oh yes, the rocks of Jervis Bay are a special place for a lot of people. People who enjoy the outdoors, people who enjoy the challenge of tangling with huge game fish from the rocks and also people who enjoy soaking a bait for one of the many different types of bottom species that frequent the area.
To our Government I have this to say, “thanks for stuffing up the recreational opportunities of the people who enjoy a bit of fresh air and some physical activity, we put you in power and all you can do is shit on us from a great height”.
Bruce Walker
Darwin
Well said, Bruce! Can you PLEASE make sure you cut-and-paste and then submit those sentiments to the Heritage Fishing Jervis Bay folks via the link in my blog? There are some really valuable observations in there…
I have submitted the info to Heritage Fishing Jervis Bay.
I wasn’t a fish magnet like some of the people I mentioned, but every dog has his day when fishing the rocks at JB.
I had quite a few “greatest day of my life trips” and I can look back at them with fond memories.
I will dig out my old photos and scan some of the better ones, they maybe of some interest.
Bruce Walker
Great memories Steve makes a bloke feel his age I tell ya ! Good to see you kept some of the old photo’s I’ve still got that one of you sitting on the plastic bucket at Big Beecroft ! Hope to catch up with you again at Windamere !..Paul Winchester
Sure does bring back great memories, where have all the Yellowfin gone these days, they were quite prolific at the tubes in the 70’s The Tubes have been exploited over the years and has turned into the local Garage dump by Grubs that can’t look after the place.
Outstanding article as per usual Steve.
I also recall the earlier days around the LBG mecca, Currarong, in particular those early days at the cave (Big Beecroft), I recall fishing alongside you and your old fishing buddies on several occasions there and whilst our group mainly fishing with ganged hooks n pilchards, you boys where using strange technique, carrying in bait that was kept alive using heavy game type rods, sitting and scouring the waters surface for any sign, I reflected on this style for a while after the few times I had witnessed it, although nothing major was caught I could see the vision and of course, the bug had sunk its teeth, it was trial and error for a while and I couldn’t fathom the idea of carrying in the bait, I always caught my bate from the location I fished, yakkas caught in the early dark hours n frigates etc spun up in day light, this sometimes resulted in no love bait at all so on the odd occasion the LBG was a no go and the ever faithful pillies and spinning had to quench my thirst, In search of my monster I started going to the tubes, crocodile and devils gorge etc, for seven years I went from platform to platform chasing the big one, after a few close calls and in the year 1989, I landed my Marlin, it wasn’t a huge monster but from the stones at 52kg was still a nice score, it was 7ft 7inch and as you described, a hard walk out from the tubes. I have now not fished the area for years but was horrified when I recently found out about the closure of some of the other close locations I fished in those days, I agree this is so wrong to deprive the upcoming fisho’s the opportunities to have a go here, how can the country belong to the people if we are governed not to have the right to access these unique places, places not found anywhere else throughout the fishing world. s for danger, there are fare more dangerous things people do in recreational pursuits other than fishing, I find little to validate the excuses used to take away our rights to stand and fish in these places.
Do you still want pics?
Thanks for your wonderful feedback and memories, David! I’ll find out if the lobby group are still seeking photos…
Cheers,
Starlo
G’day Steve,
Really enjoyed reading this would love to read some more retrospective stuff. PS loved your pics
Chris
Thanks for that!
Many good years fishing Devils Gorge until they closed it down. The walk in was a hairy one!!